along the rugged coastline of Cantabria in northern Spain, Comillas is a picturesque town that seamlessly blends history, architecture, and natural beauty. Often overlooked by mainstream tourism, this hidden gem offers a rich tapestry of experiences for travelers seeking an authentic Spanish escape.
Marvel at Gaudí’s Masterpiece: El Capricho
Begin your journey with a visit to El Capricho de Gaudí, one of the few works by the famed architect Antoni Gaudí outside of Catalonia. This whimsical villa, adorned with sunflower motifs and vibrant ceramics, showcases Gaudí’s signature modernist style. A guided tour unveils the ingenious design elements that make this structure a true architectural delight.
Stroll Through the Historic Old Town
The heart of Comillas is its charming Casco Antiguo Old Town). Wander through narrow cobblestone streets lined with traditional Cantabrian houses, adorned with wooden balconies and red-tiled roofs. Explore quaint boutiques, artisan shops, and cozy cafés where you can savor local delicacies.
Visit the Majestic Palacio de Sobrellano
Overlooking the town is the Palacio de Sobrellano, a neo-Gothic palace commissioned by the Marquis of Comillas in the 19th century. The palace boasts opulent interiors with intricate woodwork, stained glass windows, and antique furnishings. Don’t miss the adjacent Chapel-Mausoleum, featuring stunning Gothic Revival architecture.
Explore the Pontifical University
The imposing Universidad Pontificia is an architectural marvel blending neo-Gothic and modernist styles. Although it’s no longer functioning as a university, visitors can admire its grand façade and explore the landscaped gardens. The building stands as a testament to Comillas’ historical significance in education and culture.
Relax on Comillas Beach
For a dose of sun and sea, head to Playa de Comillas. This pristine beach offers golden sands and clear waters, perfect for swimming or simply basking in the coastal beauty. The promenade is lined with seafood restaurants and ice cream parlors, making it an ideal spot for a leisurely afternoon.
Discover the Cemetery and “El Ángel Exterminador”
An unusual yet fascinating attraction is the Comillas Cemetery, situated on a hill with panoramic ocean views. The cemetery is renowned for the hauntingly beautiful sculpture “El Ángel Exterminador” by Josep Llimona. The combination of dramatic architecture and serene surroundings creates a contemplative atmosphere.
Hike the Natural Parks
Surrounding Comillas are lush landscapes ideal for hiking and nature walks. Trails like the Ruta de los Miradores offer breathtaking vistas of the coastline and countryside. Keep an eye out for local wildlife and enjoy the tranquility of Cantabria’s natural beauty.
Savor Local Cuisine
Indulge in Cantabrian gastronomy at local taverns and restaurants. Must-try dishes include sobaos pasiegos buttery sponge cakes), quesada pasiega traditional cheesecake), and fresh seafood like grilled sardines and octopus. Pair your meal with a glass of local cider or a robust red wine.
Experience Cultural Festivities
If you visit during summer, immerse yourself in local traditions at festivals like the Fiestas del Santo Cristo del Amparo. These celebrations feature lively parades, music, dancing, and fireworks, offering a glimpse into the vibrant culture of Comillas.
Practical Tips
Getting There: Comillas is accessible by bus from Santander and Bilbao. Car rentals are also available for more flexibility.
Accommodation: Options range from charming guesthouses to upscale hotels. Booking in advance is recommended during peak season.
Best Time to Visit: Late spring to early autumn offers pleasant weather ideal for outdoor activities.